What size pattern should I get?

I have a lot to say about this, and have decided to do something very brave. I will go through the process of figuring out what size pattern you should buy. Be forewarned, I am not a super-model! I'm just a regular person like you. I'll show you how to measure yourself, and you will be armed with what size pattern to get started sewing!

This will be good to do at home before you head to the fabric store. If you are going to freak out about the size, you will have a chance to get over it and not have a public melt-down. I am serious.

Years ago, I made some performance dresses for a school choir group. I also worked at the fabric store where the girls and their parents would pick up and pay for the pattern and fabric. I had to explain to many tearful young girls that just because they fit into a size 4 RTW (ready to wear), did not mean that is the size pattern to get.

Patterns have consistantly remained the same size through standardization since the early 70's. If you buy a size 10 pattern from 10, 20, or 30 years ago, it will be the same size today. Good to know that you won't have the frustration of spending the time making something only to find out that this pattern is a different size than the last one you bought.

If this sounds confusing so far, keep reading. Have you ever heard of vanity sizing? Google it, or look it up on Wikipedia. Vanity Sizing. Size zero didn't exist until just a few years ago. I have never been a size zero, nor aspire to be a zero.

Men's sizes have changed very little because the uniform industry relies on body measurements such as waist size and inseam length. I could devote a whole commentary to this, but that won't help you figure out what size pattern to get. The main thing here is that you need to separate the idea of what size dress you would buy at the mall, versus what size pattern you will need at the fabric store. Do not be shocked if your pattern size is much larger. Ok, get the freaking out over with and then we will move on.

Get a tape measure. The kind that is soft and flexible is what you will need. You can borrow one, but go ahead and buy one if you don't have one. They are inexpensive and you will use it a lot.


Find a good mirror, preferrabley full length. Wear the under garments you plan to wear under whatever you are making. Normal bra and underwear is fine for most things. If you were making a cocktail, wedding, prom, special occasion anything, wear whatever foundation garments you would wear under it. This includes, spanx, pantyhose, girdles, corsets. Do a separate one for this outfit. Go back and check it from time to time as your body changes for all kinds of reasons.

For now, you will need 3 measurements. Write these down.



Bust Measurement: This is the fullest part of your chest while holding the tape measure parallel to the floor. It's important to not let it dip in the back. Don't make it too tight. You'll want to be able to breathe. This is like measuring for a bra, if you've done that before. Write down your measurement. Mine is 38".



Waist: Next, you will need to measure the smallest part of your waist. You can make this as tight as you are comfortable with. Mine is 30" I can't believe I am admitting that.




Hip: The last measurement for now is your hips. Measure the fullest part, looking from the front and side to make sure you are measuring it all. You want the tape to be again parallel to the floor. My hips are 41".

Now that you have these 3 measurements, you can get started with the right pattern size. According to the size chart on a Vogue Pattern that I own, I need a size 16. Holy cow! In Ready to Wear, I fit into most 10's. I wear size medium T shirts and sweaters. While 16 is a much larger size than anything I could buy, that is indeed the pattern size I will need to get. Do not be tempted to get around this with some vanity issue. Get the right size. You will be much less frustrated later. You will have plenty of opportunity to make it fit the way you want it to. Besides, if you decide to put a size tag in a garment you made.....make it whatever size you want it to be. No one will ask, and most don't care. They will just tell you how awesome you are for making it yourself!

The major pattern companies are: Vogue, McCall's, Simplicity, Butterick. There are other companies, but these have all been around a very long time. They all have pattern catalogs to look at online and from the comfort of home. The sizing chart used is pretty much the same on all of these companies. It doesn't hurt to check the size chart for each pattern company as you are looking for your size. It's also a good idea to take your measurements in centimeters, since most of the world (except United States) uses the metric system.

Another bit about European patterns: They often have a slightly closer fit. This is more of a European standard. Good to know.

If there are any guys out there who are wanting to learn how to sew, I will show how to measure you too. If anyone is planning to sew for a man in your life, this will be good information for you also. I will also show how to measure and pick a pattern size for children.