Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Finding Fabrics

If you are new to sewing, I would suggest going to the fabric store to become familiar with different fabrics and how they look and feel.

At the top of each bolt of fabric, will be listed the fiber content, and care requirements. Most fabrics will say to dry clean, but honestly, you can wash almost everything....almost. I would not wash wool unless you are planning to make felt. Silks have to be handled delicately, but can be washed.

If you want to make a washable garment, be sure to wash and dry the fabric BEFORE you cut into it. If it is a fabric that will shrink, buy a bit extra. If you are not sure about washing, but would like to see how it looks after, wash a little sample to see what happens. I've had some great results from washing a fabric that wasn't supposed to be. Don't be afraid to experiment!

If you know you plan to dry clean your finished creation, some books will tell you to take the fabric to the cleaners and have it cleaned before cutting. I find this un-necessary. Usually, a good press (on the back side of fabric) with steam is plenty to pre-treat a dry clean only sewing project. Even this is not always necessary. Faux Fur is a good example of fabric that would not need anything before cutting.




For our first sewing project, I am going to use some fabric I already own. It is a devore satin. The background is sheer (green) with a blue satin design. I bought an apple green cotton tank from Old Navy last year. It will look great under it, and I won't need to worry about showing the world what it doesn't want to see. So, I've decided to make a tunic out of that fabric. I haven't chosen a pattern yet, but I know it has to be size 16. (sigh)

My husband asked a great question earlier. He asked me "how would I know how much fabric to buy if I didn't yet have a pattern?" Here is my rule of thumb on how much fabric to buy, I wear mostly separates (tops, bottoms). 2 1/2 to 3 yards will make a lot of different separates, so even if I don't know if I will make a jacket, or pants out of whatever fabric I've found, I know that will give me plenty of options. That's enough to make a lot of dresses as well. It's also enough to make pillow cases for your bed. If you think you are going to make a whole suit, or something long/full out of the fabric you've found, obviously, you will have to buy more. Pajamas, robes, long dresses will require more like 4 to 5 yards.

If you have chosen a pattern, but have not yet purchased fabric. Look at the back of your pattern envelope. It will give you a list of suggested fabrics for that pattern. If you are still looking for a pattern, the catalogs will also give you this information about the pattern. The back of the pattern will tell you how much fabric to get for your size. If you are planning to wash the garment, and you think the fabric might shrink a little, buy an extra 1/4 to 1/2 yard. Examples of fabrics that will shrink would be: 100% cotton, rayon, bamboo, and silk. Most natural fibers have a tendency to shrink. Most synthetics do not shrink, though sometimes they do. That's why it's important to prewash the fabric before you cut in to it. Examples of synthetic fibers: Polyester, Lycra, nylon, spandex.

It is important to pay attention to what type of fabric is recommended for that pattern. There are many patterns for stretch fabrics, and non-stretch fabrics. Look for the kind of fabric that pattern suggests. Don't substitute. Some patterns can go either way, but it will say that on the pattern. This can make online shopping for fabrics easier too. Simply search on any fabric site for knit or stretch fabrics, or whatever kind of fabric the pattern suggests, and your options will be narrowed down for you. In the fabric store, fabrics will be grouped together similarly.

If you are shopping for fabric from a giant stack of mill ends, or close-outs, the top of the bolt does not always accurately give you the correct information for the fabric it is on. This is where it really helps to know a little bit about fabric, fibers, and to be willing to experiment. If the fabric is deeply discounted, it is a wonderful opportunity to make practice garments.

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