Busier than Ever!

Dear Readers; Thanks for your patience! I have been working at a hectic pace lately. There are lots of spring projects. Business is good!

I've agreed to participate in Tulsa's Designer Showcase again this year. I always feel honored to be part of showcase homes, although it is hectic and pressure-driven. This year's venue is for a "boutique hotel". I've been given the task of making a king-sized duvet, 10 pillows, and some sort of window treatment. I've completed all but the window treatment. When I have a chance to take some photos, I will post them here.

I've also been working on several projects for another designer (who lives 3 hours away) in a town south of Oklahoma City. I find it fascinating that she can acquire so much business out in the middle of what seems like no-where. In the land of cowboys and oil-men, she helps refine their decor. I am so glad to know her! She brings me many fun projects to work on.

Tunic pattern: I have finally purchased Butterick pattern 5465. I have looked over the guide sheet and will next prepare the pattern for cutting. I am going to cut the tissue and do some minor alterations to the pattern. I have a couple of fitting issues that are easily addressed on the sewing pattern before cutting into the fabric. For instance, I am short-waisted. This means my rib-cage area is shorter than what the pattern is drafted for. How do I know this? By taking this measurement.....

It's probably not obvious to see, but I am wearing a necklace to help me determine the spot to measure from on the back of my neck.

I have compared my neck to waist measurement to the Body Measurement chart on the guide sheet. It gives the back waist length for your size. Compare, and if yours is shorter (or longer), I will show you what to do.

Another alteration that I'm sure I will have to address is that my shoulders are slightly "forward thrust" (which means I round my shoulders to the front a bit). Yes, I should work on my posture, but more easily I can alter my pattern.

My next post, I will show you how I altered the pattern and do a test fit with the tissue.

Til then, Happy Sewing!

Roberta

Matching Prints

Can you see the seam in this image? It's there, right amongst the swirligigs. Yes, there it is. Pretty good match, huh?

Is it really that important to take the time to match such a detailed fabric design? Yes! It might not at first be so obvious, but it can really distract the eye from your sewing skills. Think about a jacket back with a center back seam. If you are making the jacket out of a printed or woven design, and it is not matched perfectly, it can be very obvious....even if it's off just a little. While you are wearing it, you might not see it, but everyone else will.

Matching the design of your fabric is worth taking the extra time to make it perfect.

How to do this? I will demonstrate on a drapery panel, but this can be applied to most anything you are sewing.

On one edge of the 2 that I'm joining in this photo, I am pressing along where the seam will be sewn. I am joining a straight edge here, but this can work on a curved seam allowance just as well. Notice I've folded the fabric back just past where the print starts, instead of where the print starts. It will give you just a bit more "wiggle room" to make sure you don't let any of that unprinted edge show on your finished seam.

Turn that pressed edge over and line it up with the other side to match. You will be working on the right side of fabric to do this.

Use "T" pins to secure strategic match points. Looking at the print from the right side, you will easily be able to determine where it's really important to match it perfectly. Just push that "T" pin down and into your pressing surface (this can be a regular ironing board). Push the pins in all the way...angle them if necessary. Some fabrics will require many of these match points, some not as many.

After pinning the entire seam this way, carefully lift the side that has the pressed edge and fold it back so that both right sides are together. Be careful not to undo what you just spent time doing. Pulling too hard will make the "T" pins come out. Be gentle.

You will now be working from the wrong side of the fabric.

Along where the seam will be, add as many regular pins as you need. These will also anchor the "T" pins and stabilize them. I usually pin on both sides of the "T" pins...approximately an inch or so. After the entire seam is pinned, carefully lift both of the fabrics together that are to be joined and take them to the sewing machine.

The crease that formed when you pressed the first edge will be your guide to sew along.

Be careful when sewing over the pins. With this method, you will almost guarantee a perfectly matched seam as shown at the top of this post!

Welcome to my World

I finally decided which pattern to use for the tunic! It's a Butterick pattern, but not the view photographed. It is pattern number 5465....view B. Mine will look different. You'll see.


The reason I chose this pattern is because it is the basic shape I had in mind. Also, and not so obvious, is that it has bust darts. I am not super busty, but I do know that having a bust means you are pushing fabric forward in the front. As cute as a bunch of fabric can be in the front and at your mid-section, I don't want any speculation that I could possibly be pregnant. That's not a flattering fit for me. I know I will have more fitting opportunity with a bust dart even though the top will be a very simple shape. The fabric has a lot going on design wise, so no need to compete with details that will get lost in a busy fabric design.

I am looking forward to making it!

In the meantime, I have been sewing other projects for work, and trying to stay ahead of deadlines! Today, tomorrow, and possibly the next day will be consumed by the 4 drapery panels I'm making for a designer here in Tulsa. I'm surrounded by yards and yards of paisley.....30 yards of it.

This has nothing to do with a tunic! However, I thought it might be a good opportunity to show you how to match patterns. My best advice for matching a fabric design, is to have plenty of patience and spend plenty of time pinning this detail. It will be worth the extra effort. You might not have a large pressing surface like I do, but this will work on a regular ironing board too. I will post pictures and show you how I match complex fabric designs in the next post.

Finding Fabrics

If you are new to sewing, I would suggest going to the fabric store to become familiar with different fabrics and how they look and feel.

At the top of each bolt of fabric, will be listed the fiber content, and care requirements. Most fabrics will say to dry clean, but honestly, you can wash almost everything....almost. I would not wash wool unless you are planning to make felt. Silks have to be handled delicately, but can be washed.

If you want to make a washable garment, be sure to wash and dry the fabric BEFORE you cut into it. If it is a fabric that will shrink, buy a bit extra. If you are not sure about washing, but would like to see how it looks after, wash a little sample to see what happens. I've had some great results from washing a fabric that wasn't supposed to be. Don't be afraid to experiment!

If you know you plan to dry clean your finished creation, some books will tell you to take the fabric to the cleaners and have it cleaned before cutting. I find this un-necessary. Usually, a good press (on the back side of fabric) with steam is plenty to pre-treat a dry clean only sewing project. Even this is not always necessary. Faux Fur is a good example of fabric that would not need anything before cutting.




For our first sewing project, I am going to use some fabric I already own. It is a devore satin. The background is sheer (green) with a blue satin design. I bought an apple green cotton tank from Old Navy last year. It will look great under it, and I won't need to worry about showing the world what it doesn't want to see. So, I've decided to make a tunic out of that fabric. I haven't chosen a pattern yet, but I know it has to be size 16. (sigh)

My husband asked a great question earlier. He asked me "how would I know how much fabric to buy if I didn't yet have a pattern?" Here is my rule of thumb on how much fabric to buy, I wear mostly separates (tops, bottoms). 2 1/2 to 3 yards will make a lot of different separates, so even if I don't know if I will make a jacket, or pants out of whatever fabric I've found, I know that will give me plenty of options. That's enough to make a lot of dresses as well. It's also enough to make pillow cases for your bed. If you think you are going to make a whole suit, or something long/full out of the fabric you've found, obviously, you will have to buy more. Pajamas, robes, long dresses will require more like 4 to 5 yards.

If you have chosen a pattern, but have not yet purchased fabric. Look at the back of your pattern envelope. It will give you a list of suggested fabrics for that pattern. If you are still looking for a pattern, the catalogs will also give you this information about the pattern. The back of the pattern will tell you how much fabric to get for your size. If you are planning to wash the garment, and you think the fabric might shrink a little, buy an extra 1/4 to 1/2 yard. Examples of fabrics that will shrink would be: 100% cotton, rayon, bamboo, and silk. Most natural fibers have a tendency to shrink. Most synthetics do not shrink, though sometimes they do. That's why it's important to prewash the fabric before you cut in to it. Examples of synthetic fibers: Polyester, Lycra, nylon, spandex.

It is important to pay attention to what type of fabric is recommended for that pattern. There are many patterns for stretch fabrics, and non-stretch fabrics. Look for the kind of fabric that pattern suggests. Don't substitute. Some patterns can go either way, but it will say that on the pattern. This can make online shopping for fabrics easier too. Simply search on any fabric site for knit or stretch fabrics, or whatever kind of fabric the pattern suggests, and your options will be narrowed down for you. In the fabric store, fabrics will be grouped together similarly.

If you are shopping for fabric from a giant stack of mill ends, or close-outs, the top of the bolt does not always accurately give you the correct information for the fabric it is on. This is where it really helps to know a little bit about fabric, fibers, and to be willing to experiment. If the fabric is deeply discounted, it is a wonderful opportunity to make practice garments.

Pick a Pattern

As I said in the last post, all the major pattern companies (and nearly all smaller companies) have their catalogs online to view from anywhere. This is great, because you can browse at your leisure. Write down the pattern number(s) along with the size you will need. If you are still unsure about what size pattern you need, choose the size that is closest to your measurements. Remember, it's always easier to take it in a notch than to let seams out!

It is not unusual to need one size for tops and a different size for pants and skirts. If you are making a tunic, or dress for your project, go ahead and choose the size that will fit your upper body. Most patterns come in multiple sizes and it's pretty easy to add an extra size to the hips. If you are making a skirt, or pants, choose the size closest to your hip measurement. It is easier to take in the waist on pants and skirts.

I like getting my patterns at the fabric store. If it's a complicated pattern, I sometimes like to pull the guide sheet out of the envelope to look over the instructions before I purchase. Fabric stores usually have patterns discounted, or on sale.

A lot of fabric stores have closed over the last few years. It can make getting supplies and shopping for fabrics and patterns a bit more challenging and with fewer options. Thankfully, no matter where you live, shopping online has never been easier!

If you are a beginner at sewing, choose a pattern that looks or says "Easy". There are lots of patterns that don't have zippers, or difficult details. If it's been a while since you've sewed, an easy pattern will boost your confidence to try something more difficult later. The first pattern I will make with you is going to be easy. I haven't chosen it yet, but I have an idea of what I'd like to make. Did I mention it has to be a size 16?

Future articles and Projects

I just started this blog. I have so many ideas and am so excited about each and every one of them! I have more ideas than time, but keep checking back.

Here are some ideas I have in mind:

How to Make a Duct-Tape Dress Form. This will make designing and fitting yourself much easier. Be your own designer!

How to design an original using Draping technique and the Dress Form.

Make the man a Spiffy, Retro-styled summer robe.

How to hem a pair of Pants.

How to hem a skirt.

Re-making thrift store treasures.

Make a bias skirt.

Make a bias top.

Bias Binding.

Sleep like Royalty on silk charmeuse pillow shams. One of my favorite gifts to give.

How to replace, or install an invisible zipper.

How to make a zipper look "hand-picked" without hand-sewing.

How to make a corset. Oo La La!

Purses!

How to make Drapery Panels.

How to make Roman Shades.

How to make pillows.

How to join trims on pillows invisibly.

Hand stitches.

Mitered Pillows. All kinds of pillows.

Alterations.

Baby Flower Headband/ Fashion Flower hair-clip.

Making Felt.

Working with Peta Approved faux-Fur.

Make an upholstered Head-board.

Working from Home.

Setting up for Sewing Space.

Tools.


I am hoping to add videos of techniques and projects. Exciting!

What size pattern should I get?

I have a lot to say about this, and have decided to do something very brave. I will go through the process of figuring out what size pattern you should buy. Be forewarned, I am not a super-model! I'm just a regular person like you. I'll show you how to measure yourself, and you will be armed with what size pattern to get started sewing!

This will be good to do at home before you head to the fabric store. If you are going to freak out about the size, you will have a chance to get over it and not have a public melt-down. I am serious.

Years ago, I made some performance dresses for a school choir group. I also worked at the fabric store where the girls and their parents would pick up and pay for the pattern and fabric. I had to explain to many tearful young girls that just because they fit into a size 4 RTW (ready to wear), did not mean that is the size pattern to get.

Patterns have consistantly remained the same size through standardization since the early 70's. If you buy a size 10 pattern from 10, 20, or 30 years ago, it will be the same size today. Good to know that you won't have the frustration of spending the time making something only to find out that this pattern is a different size than the last one you bought.

If this sounds confusing so far, keep reading. Have you ever heard of vanity sizing? Google it, or look it up on Wikipedia. Vanity Sizing. Size zero didn't exist until just a few years ago. I have never been a size zero, nor aspire to be a zero.

Men's sizes have changed very little because the uniform industry relies on body measurements such as waist size and inseam length. I could devote a whole commentary to this, but that won't help you figure out what size pattern to get. The main thing here is that you need to separate the idea of what size dress you would buy at the mall, versus what size pattern you will need at the fabric store. Do not be shocked if your pattern size is much larger. Ok, get the freaking out over with and then we will move on.

Get a tape measure. The kind that is soft and flexible is what you will need. You can borrow one, but go ahead and buy one if you don't have one. They are inexpensive and you will use it a lot.


Find a good mirror, preferrabley full length. Wear the under garments you plan to wear under whatever you are making. Normal bra and underwear is fine for most things. If you were making a cocktail, wedding, prom, special occasion anything, wear whatever foundation garments you would wear under it. This includes, spanx, pantyhose, girdles, corsets. Do a separate one for this outfit. Go back and check it from time to time as your body changes for all kinds of reasons.

For now, you will need 3 measurements. Write these down.



Bust Measurement: This is the fullest part of your chest while holding the tape measure parallel to the floor. It's important to not let it dip in the back. Don't make it too tight. You'll want to be able to breathe. This is like measuring for a bra, if you've done that before. Write down your measurement. Mine is 38".



Waist: Next, you will need to measure the smallest part of your waist. You can make this as tight as you are comfortable with. Mine is 30" I can't believe I am admitting that.




Hip: The last measurement for now is your hips. Measure the fullest part, looking from the front and side to make sure you are measuring it all. You want the tape to be again parallel to the floor. My hips are 41".

Now that you have these 3 measurements, you can get started with the right pattern size. According to the size chart on a Vogue Pattern that I own, I need a size 16. Holy cow! In Ready to Wear, I fit into most 10's. I wear size medium T shirts and sweaters. While 16 is a much larger size than anything I could buy, that is indeed the pattern size I will need to get. Do not be tempted to get around this with some vanity issue. Get the right size. You will be much less frustrated later. You will have plenty of opportunity to make it fit the way you want it to. Besides, if you decide to put a size tag in a garment you made.....make it whatever size you want it to be. No one will ask, and most don't care. They will just tell you how awesome you are for making it yourself!

The major pattern companies are: Vogue, McCall's, Simplicity, Butterick. There are other companies, but these have all been around a very long time. They all have pattern catalogs to look at online and from the comfort of home. The sizing chart used is pretty much the same on all of these companies. It doesn't hurt to check the size chart for each pattern company as you are looking for your size. It's also a good idea to take your measurements in centimeters, since most of the world (except United States) uses the metric system.

Another bit about European patterns: They often have a slightly closer fit. This is more of a European standard. Good to know.

If there are any guys out there who are wanting to learn how to sew, I will show how to measure you too. If anyone is planning to sew for a man in your life, this will be good information for you also. I will also show how to measure and pick a pattern size for children.

Why do you sew?

There are many reasons to sew. The reasons vary, but I think everyone should know how to sew a button that falls off a garment. Right? Really basic sewing skills can save you a lot of money over the years.

What about sewing on patches for your kid's scout, karate, or sport uniform? It's not hard and if all else fails, there is always glue.

Halloween costumes? You can really be a hero here Mom, Dad, Grandma. I will put some pictures of Halloween costumes I have made for my kids. Fun memories!

There are a lot of 'cottage industry' businesses that rely on someone to sew something. Here are a few examples: Dance costumes for kids or adults, horse gear, cheerleading costumes, theater costumes, dog accessories, alterations, halloween costumes, wedding related, interior design related. There are plenty. Usually, you can start and even stay at home to run this type of business.

If you have any fitting issues whatsoever, you can save a LOT of money doing your own alterations. You will also look a lot better in clothes that fit you. The celebrities we see who are known for their curves do not buy just any dress, put it on, and look fabulous. They have tailors who make those clothes look like a second skin...accentuating, and hiding each curve or bulge. You can do that! Save yourself a lot of money, and make yourself look better.

It's a great way to be kind to the earth. You can extend the life of anything if you can fix it, or re-design it. Re-purposing is very chic. Flea market finds can be updated and given new life if you can sew a pillow or new cushion cover. Again, you can save a lot of money by recycling, or up-cycling an otherwise ordinary item. Plus you can create some really cool stuff!

It's always a shining moment when someone says: "Wow! That is so cool. Where did you get it?" You smile and say "Thanks, I made it myself." "Wow"