Busier than Ever!

Dear Readers; Thanks for your patience! I have been working at a hectic pace lately. There are lots of spring projects. Business is good!

I've agreed to participate in Tulsa's Designer Showcase again this year. I always feel honored to be part of showcase homes, although it is hectic and pressure-driven. This year's venue is for a "boutique hotel". I've been given the task of making a king-sized duvet, 10 pillows, and some sort of window treatment. I've completed all but the window treatment. When I have a chance to take some photos, I will post them here.

I've also been working on several projects for another designer (who lives 3 hours away) in a town south of Oklahoma City. I find it fascinating that she can acquire so much business out in the middle of what seems like no-where. In the land of cowboys and oil-men, she helps refine their decor. I am so glad to know her! She brings me many fun projects to work on.

Tunic pattern: I have finally purchased Butterick pattern 5465. I have looked over the guide sheet and will next prepare the pattern for cutting. I am going to cut the tissue and do some minor alterations to the pattern. I have a couple of fitting issues that are easily addressed on the sewing pattern before cutting into the fabric. For instance, I am short-waisted. This means my rib-cage area is shorter than what the pattern is drafted for. How do I know this? By taking this measurement.....

It's probably not obvious to see, but I am wearing a necklace to help me determine the spot to measure from on the back of my neck.

I have compared my neck to waist measurement to the Body Measurement chart on the guide sheet. It gives the back waist length for your size. Compare, and if yours is shorter (or longer), I will show you what to do.

Another alteration that I'm sure I will have to address is that my shoulders are slightly "forward thrust" (which means I round my shoulders to the front a bit). Yes, I should work on my posture, but more easily I can alter my pattern.

My next post, I will show you how I altered the pattern and do a test fit with the tissue.

Til then, Happy Sewing!

Roberta

Matching Prints

Can you see the seam in this image? It's there, right amongst the swirligigs. Yes, there it is. Pretty good match, huh?

Is it really that important to take the time to match such a detailed fabric design? Yes! It might not at first be so obvious, but it can really distract the eye from your sewing skills. Think about a jacket back with a center back seam. If you are making the jacket out of a printed or woven design, and it is not matched perfectly, it can be very obvious....even if it's off just a little. While you are wearing it, you might not see it, but everyone else will.

Matching the design of your fabric is worth taking the extra time to make it perfect.

How to do this? I will demonstrate on a drapery panel, but this can be applied to most anything you are sewing.

On one edge of the 2 that I'm joining in this photo, I am pressing along where the seam will be sewn. I am joining a straight edge here, but this can work on a curved seam allowance just as well. Notice I've folded the fabric back just past where the print starts, instead of where the print starts. It will give you just a bit more "wiggle room" to make sure you don't let any of that unprinted edge show on your finished seam.

Turn that pressed edge over and line it up with the other side to match. You will be working on the right side of fabric to do this.

Use "T" pins to secure strategic match points. Looking at the print from the right side, you will easily be able to determine where it's really important to match it perfectly. Just push that "T" pin down and into your pressing surface (this can be a regular ironing board). Push the pins in all the way...angle them if necessary. Some fabrics will require many of these match points, some not as many.

After pinning the entire seam this way, carefully lift the side that has the pressed edge and fold it back so that both right sides are together. Be careful not to undo what you just spent time doing. Pulling too hard will make the "T" pins come out. Be gentle.

You will now be working from the wrong side of the fabric.

Along where the seam will be, add as many regular pins as you need. These will also anchor the "T" pins and stabilize them. I usually pin on both sides of the "T" pins...approximately an inch or so. After the entire seam is pinned, carefully lift both of the fabrics together that are to be joined and take them to the sewing machine.

The crease that formed when you pressed the first edge will be your guide to sew along.

Be careful when sewing over the pins. With this method, you will almost guarantee a perfectly matched seam as shown at the top of this post!

Welcome to my World

I finally decided which pattern to use for the tunic! It's a Butterick pattern, but not the view photographed. It is pattern number 5465....view B. Mine will look different. You'll see.


The reason I chose this pattern is because it is the basic shape I had in mind. Also, and not so obvious, is that it has bust darts. I am not super busty, but I do know that having a bust means you are pushing fabric forward in the front. As cute as a bunch of fabric can be in the front and at your mid-section, I don't want any speculation that I could possibly be pregnant. That's not a flattering fit for me. I know I will have more fitting opportunity with a bust dart even though the top will be a very simple shape. The fabric has a lot going on design wise, so no need to compete with details that will get lost in a busy fabric design.

I am looking forward to making it!

In the meantime, I have been sewing other projects for work, and trying to stay ahead of deadlines! Today, tomorrow, and possibly the next day will be consumed by the 4 drapery panels I'm making for a designer here in Tulsa. I'm surrounded by yards and yards of paisley.....30 yards of it.

This has nothing to do with a tunic! However, I thought it might be a good opportunity to show you how to match patterns. My best advice for matching a fabric design, is to have plenty of patience and spend plenty of time pinning this detail. It will be worth the extra effort. You might not have a large pressing surface like I do, but this will work on a regular ironing board too. I will post pictures and show you how I match complex fabric designs in the next post.